Kayaking around the Morvern Peninsula

Part 3: Loch Sunart never disappoints

Three days in, less than 30km to go, and the weather turning brighter, calmer and sunnier; completing the circumnavigation was becoming much more of a reality. After yesterday's exertions, we made a slow start to the day having already made a decision to miss the early high tide and the opportunity to paddle through the gap at Doirlinn, Oronsay. 'Doirlinn' is derived from a Galeic word which means 'beach that floods from both sides' - a spit of land that joins one piece of land to the another and gets flooded at high tides. The island that Castle Tioram sits on is a good example and you'll see signs to Doirlinn as you turn off the main road near Acharacle.

Our only options were to carry over wet seaweed (I've done this on a previous trip and it really isn't worth the energy expended) or head back out of Loch na Drohma Buidhe and around the north side of Oronsay.

Droma Buidhe to Ardery

Day four: Carna, Oronsay and Loch Sunart

We opted from the latter and paddled out of Loch na Drohma Buidhe in conditions so different to when we had arrived yesterday. With time on our hands to admire the clear views across to Ben Hiant (pronounced 'hee-ant'), the highest mountain on Ardnamurchan, and the top end of the Isle of Mull, we skirted around the north shores of Oronsay before darting back in towards Loch Teacuis paddling against the tide. Given how storng the ebb tide was and how far ot was to enter Loch Teacuis, we decide not to but to head around the south east of Carna and emerge onto Loch Sunart through a very shallow Caol Charna (the Gaelic 'Caol' or 'Caolas' means 'a narrow neck of water' and usually has a faster flow of water) running with the ebb tide and over shallow waters.

Our wild camp spot in Loch na Dromha Buidhe is not a secret to kayakers or sailors and has been used as shelter from high winds for thousands of years. Many yachts head for the safety of Tobermory on Mull but, when that is full, Dromha Buide acts like an overflow car park.

If things had worked out differently over the previous three days, we could have spent the day exploring Loch Teacuis (only accessible by boat) and looking for seals, otters and eagles (Golden and White-tailed) that are fairly common in this remote area before camping at another spot nearby. Knowing the best camping spots enables maximum flexibility over the journey and gives the ability to tailor it to the people on it. We had discussed the options and decided to head on gently, in perfect conditions, and make it to another wonderful wild camping spot much further up Loch Sunart. One thing that Cameron spotted along the route, and I was already aware of, was that in over 160km of shoreline (including the Mull shoreline and both sides of Loch Sunart), there were actually very few decent wild camping spots. Which left some big gaps between possible locations - Loch Sunart being one of them.

I've paddled the length of Loch Sunart many times since starting Otter Adventures in 2017 and found very few locations that I would consider for wild camping. While there are places to pitch a tent, they often lack fresh, clean water, or are on quite steep slopes or overgrown with bracken (and ticks). Some are near roads or buildings, which goes against the wilderness feeling this trip should have. While I would use these if needed, we wanted campsites with views and sunsets, not cars and barking dogs.

And we made sure we got that for our last night of the expedition...

With conditions so different to yesterday, we could take our hands off the paddles and take photos without being blown backwards or risking a capsize.

Exploring in sea kayaks allows you to get close to very remote areas and right among the wildlife. We were looking for campsites, but also having fun exploring.

We stopped quite frequently to check out possible campsites along Loch Sunart. Most, like this one, presented less than ideal locations, but did add possibilities if needed in the future.

Homeward bound

The final eight kilometers on home waters

Rounding Rubha Aird Earnaich near Salen yesterday and I was most definitely back on 'home waters'. Even though I know the area really well, there are still small bits I have not fully explored. The scenery never fails to impress - especially on a day like this.

We were all happy to bimble along looking for camp spots, but I knew that none would beat the one I had in mind.

The final morning we were all woken by rising temperatures in our tents as there was not a breath of wind and the skies were clear and blue. After a breakfast of fresh eggs, fresh coffee and other goodies.

Passing through the Laudale Narrows against a gentle ebb tide is easy in comparison to Wednesdays efforts. On the Strontian side, the Ngoni super yacht had been anchored overnight. It is a sleek marvel for sure at 58m long and with a height of over 50m! It may look very different to our 4.9m kayaks, somehow it was just the same - a home from home from which to explore the seas and landscapes that frame them. Were we really that different?

Stuart fancied trying the composite Valley Etain 17.7 kayak I had hired for the week - and liked it so much, he bought a used one a few months later!

The 'Ngoni' super yacht is a sleek (and rather large) that had anchored near us late last night. Its sheer height (50m) made it difficult to get the mast and its perfect reflection in one image.

With fresh fried eggs and coffee and several other goodies for breakfast, we were ready to tackle the last 10km or do back to Strontian Jetty and Otterburn B&B. It was not going to be a tough day, but one to review the week and congratulate each other for having made the circumnavigation of Morvern (even if it was a year later than planned).

Stopping (because we could) on Ardnastang Beach for another brew, we savoured the warmth of the sun before making our way to the head of Loch Sunart that many of my guests have paddled in canoe or kayak during one of our 'taster' sessions.

Our last few kilometers and last opportunities to capture images of the perfect conditions.

Our final campsite was bathed in sunshine once again and the views towards Ben Resipole were amazing.

I've got several other ideas for trips in the 'Ardnamurchan' area as it really does offer so much potential for sea kayak expeditions for beginners as well as more advanced paddlers...